There’s Something About These Islands…

“You are going out dancing ALONE?!” Asked a man behind me in the long line to get into the increasingly famous Fábrica de Arte Cubano. Just yesterday, this place hosted Kayne West and the Kardashians and the night before it featured a party for Fast and Furious. Fabrica or FAC is a progressive and unique hangout in Havana. The building features a nightclub, museum, bar and concert hall along with a fashion and jewelry store making it the perfect place to go by yourself as there is endless amounts of exploring to be done through the winding hallways. Rolling my eyes, I replied yes, refraining from explaining, like I had many times that week, that often times, I just enjoy spending time by myself. The line inched forward and I questioned my decision to start a conversation with the English speaking Japanese and German boys behind me. “You look so comfortable, it looks like you are in your pajamas, and you’re here by yourself.” Yup, definitely a mistake.

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The last time I was this isolated was years ago on an island not too far from here. Phone connection was just as limited as in Cuba and internet, texting and email were all essentially non-existent. Living on that island in the Bahamas taught me how to really appreciate solitude and accept disconnection from anything outside of myself. It is a lesson that I will admit I have forgotten to a degree in the years since.

I find it again, in moments, sitting alone in cafes, reading in a park or walking aimlessly through streets.

People seem to think it’s strange that I’m traveling alone, particularly to Cuba. Earlier this week I was lectured by the grandfather of my Casa that Cubans don’t spend time alone, they never go anywhere without being accompanied by a friend, it’s just not natural. I’ve stopped caring that my traveling alone makes many people, especially here, uncomfortable. I trust myself to stay safe and am learning more and more how to appreciate the simplicity of my own company.

After over an hour of waiting in line, I finally had an opportunity to enter. The first chance I got, I burst away from the group, skipped the bar and ran straight to the pulsing beat radiating the walls of the old factory. The music was good, really good, and I silently thanked Miami for introducing me to electronic music. At first, it was awkward. People freely swung their bodies around me, dropping to the floor, moving their arms, shaking their hips, moving however the music, or their numerous drinks, wanted them to. Slowly, I started to move, checking over my shoulder to see if anyone noticed that I was alone. It was hesitant, but I was dancing.

I am not a dancer. Ask anyone who knows me well. Sometimes I sing and I like to write, but dance has never been a way that I’ve expressed myself. There is something about these islands though…whether it be the scenery, the music or the isolation, it gets to me and when I dance, I don’t feel alone.

The happiest moment of my life happened when I was alone. In the Bahamas, as a part of the school program, I was required to participate in a 48 hour solo experience on a beach. There was a limited list of items that were allowed to be possessed during this experience: a small amount of food, water, a sleeping bag, a tarp, towel, sunscreen, swimsuit and journal. Flashlights were not on the list but could be used as the one luxury item allotted for the experience. I didn’t take one. I brought a hammock instead. Watches were also considered a luxury item, so I spent the first day gauging the position of the sun to estimate what time it was. It didn’t seem to move.

Outside, alone on that first night, I couldn’t sleep. I rocked gently in the hammock and sang to myself before giving up. I picked up my sleeping bag and walked out of the forest to the beach where I paced back and forth on the sand under the light of a full moon. The next morning, I woke up to a sunset and the start of a rainstorm. Momentarily stressed about my possessions, I panicked. Then, after a second of consideration, realized that there was nothing in my power I could do to stop the rain. So I grabbed my journal, my most important possession, and my sleeping bag and ensured their safety under my tarp. After that, I ran to the beach, feeling more free and filled with joy than I ever had in my life. Alone, I started to dance, wildly, uncontrollably, unconsciously. Minutes or hours later, Gabe, the program supervisor walked by to do a silent, non-verbal check on all participants. I gave him the required SCUBA signal for ‘okay’ and continued to dance. Days later, he would comment to me that he had never seen anyone look happier in his life.

“Cooooba, Cooooba, Cooooba,” voices around me shouted. The music blared on. As the bass dropped, so did my inhibitions and from there, I danced in a way that is only possible when you are stone cold sober, wearing an outfit that apparently looks like pajamas and alone in a foreign country following your dreams. Songs faded in and out but the beat stayed constant, pulsating the vivid colors of a country with a lifeline and heartbeat that is hard to explain. It fed my body as I moved without caring. On this dance floor, I could drop my guard as it was the one place in the city where nobody was bothering me. Ironically, while I couldn’t walk down a street without being harassed by men, I could dance, clearly alone, completely undisturbed. My dancing was freer and my heart lighter than it had been my first week in Cuba. Here I was, in the middle of the dance floor, in a country that I have always dreamed of visiting. I was doing everything that I had wanted to do. And I was alone.

It wasn’t the Bahamas, I wasn’t on a beach but the joy was still there. The joy of something terrifying, the joy of exploring, the joy of, for that moment, being connected to nothing else but yourself.

Havana 1, Lucy 0

I woke up today thinking things were better. A fairly smooth day yesterday boosted my ego and gave me an inflated sense of confidence that maybe, after five days of being in Cuba, I actually knew what I was doing.

The day started off great. I woke up to the rising sun with an idea in my mind of how I wanted the day to go, where I wanted to eat, what I wanted to see and how I wanted to pass my time. Downstairs, I chatted with my host dad after an incredible breakfast and a café con leche. Up until this day, we hadn’t had a conversation. His accent was the strongest and fastest out of everyone that I had met here. I felt uncomfortable being in the same room as him for the sole purpose of feeling like an idiot every time he said something that I didn’t understand (which was always). Our conversation started off badly. “Como blablablablablabla,” he asked me. I looked at him and he said it again and again and again. Finally, I just busted out a string of words along the lines of “I’m sorry, I don’t understand. Normally, I understand a lot of Spanish but speaking is hard. Here, the Spanish is different. It’s so fast, the accent is hard. I don’t understand and I can’t speak.” After that, he slowed it down a bit, but not much. We talked sports, college, work, life in Cuba, life in the U.S., my trip down to Colombia. Everything. For an hour. Suddenly, I understood. It was as if my nearly incomprehensible Spanish venting of all of my fears cleared my mind. After that, I could just be present. We watched TV as we spoke and out of nowhere a rerun of the 2016 Team USA Olympic Wrestling Trials came on the TV. He laughed as my face completely lit up and I pointed excitedly at the TV, saying “I know him! I know him!” as the faces of the athletes that I had lived next to for the past 10 months appeared on the screen. We watched the matches and I thought to myself that maybe, I’m not really that far away.

It got better and then it got worse. About a half hour into wrestling trials, right before I was going to leave for my first stop of the day in Habana Vieja, there was a knock on the door. Somewhere in the conversation my house dad mentioned that his wife’s nephew didn’t have work this week and could show me around Havana. GREAT! I thought. Little did I know that he had meant today. The boy showed up and asked if I was ready to go. “Sure,” I said as I had been planning to leave soon anyways. As we crossed the street he told me that his aunt said I didn’t have a boyfriend. I swore silently in my head as I instantly started to monitor my behavior out of caution and told myself to never tell anyone that I was single again. We wandered the streets of Havana without much of a purpose. It turned out that his accent was the most difficult one that I had encountered. That, coupled with a quiet voice, which was swallowed by lines of 1940s cars passing in the streets, led to little success for communication. Hours passed and each failed attempt at understanding his words beat down on me like the increasingly hot sun. Soon, I started to swear under my breath after each attempt to speak Spanish. It just kept getting worse. The language, the heat, the complete of misunderstanding of the city’s geography, and a growing feeling I couldn’t shake that something didn’t feel right with this guy – it all added up. Miles outside of my comfort zone, I wanted a one-way ticket back.

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The view of the city from the Malecón

Finally, enough was enough. I was tired of him asking me to buy him lunch, beers and bus tickets. I was tired of the heat. I was tired of spending hours with someone who I was unable to communicate with and who, altogether, wasn’t that friendly. My introversion was at its limit. I started to slowly hint that it was time for our afternoon together to end. “I need to call my parents in that hotel over there.” “I’m tired and just going to sit down and read for a bit.” “So, what are you doing for the rest of the afternoon? Going back home?” He followed me to the hotel, watched me as I read and wasn’t planning on going home anytime soon. “Are you going to eat something soon?” He asked in Spanish “I’m hungry”. That was it, I couldn’t skirt around the issue anymore and needed to just be direct, I NEEDED to be alone. “Necessito hacer las cosas en la calle sola,” I said. I need to do things in the street alone. He gave me a weird look, probably wondering what the hell I needed to do in the street by myself, asked for bus money and left. Finally.

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Driving down the streets of Havana

I returned to the house with questions of concern regarding my street errands (apparently the nephew had called to inform them of my exit strategy) and to find that my room had been cleaned. Something didn’t feel right about that, but when I brought up my concern and assured my hosts that I wanted to clean my own room, it was shaken off. Unsure whether it was my Spanish that wasn’t clear or if they just didn’t care, I gave up. I had had my money and valuables with me all day anyways.

The night ended with my first successful Máquina (shared taxi in an old American car) trip back to the house, a power outage, spending an hour playing with kids (for those who know me well, this will probably be the most shocking event that will occur over the next several months), and then retiring to my room early to watch A Walk to Remember because I needed some English and I needed to cry.

Tomorrow will be better. And the next day. Some days will be like today, but most won’t. Today, Havana kicked my ass. I lost. Badly. Havana won’t win everyday, though. Some days I will get points on my scorecard too.

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Spending the day in Habana Vieja on a day where I actually won

I told a friend before I left that Costa Rica was too easy. I needed Cuba to be more challenging, to push me, to make me speak Spanish and experience a new culture. So far, it has done all that and more. In quick WIFI message to the same friend, I stated that Havana had been everything that I told him I wanted but 100 times harder. And that was an understatement.

¡Bienvenidos a Cuba!

Today, I am closer to Miami than I have been in nearly a year, however, I have never felt further away. 24 hours into my three-week stay in Cuba, I don’t feel anymore adjusted than I did upon my arrival yesterday. I feel confused, frustrated, isolated and lost. Also, intrigued, excited and curious. And again, confused. Everything is new here.

Costa Rica is a country where you could get by being an American. You could spend weeks in the country without exchanging a single U.S. Dollar. You didn’t speak Spanish? No problem. There, being an American seemed normal. Walking down the streets of Nosara wearing a Twins hat, my one piece of clothing from home that really represented where I was from and the city that I had been trying for years to leave behind, I would have countless people walk up to me point out our shared roots.

In Cuba, it’s not like that. In Cuba, nothing is American. The currency makes no sense, the Spanish is so uniquely accented that it is nearly comprehensible to my novice ear. At least the streets make sense. Here, unlike Costa Rica, they have something that resembles addresses which makes navigating so much easier. If it was any harder, I would probably never make it home as there would be little point in asking for directions because I likely wouldn’t understand them anyways.

This is what I signed up for. When I announced that this would be a part of my itinerary I received several ‘are you crazy?! and at least one “you’re going to get arrested” reactions. Being here now, I realize that, yes, maybe I am crazy but no, I am not going to get arrested. Entering the country, despite all words of caution on internet blogs, is not all that difficult. I received no reaction to my passport while going through immigration even though I had been piecing together Spanish phrases in my mind to explain my entering the country. In fact, in the end, it was more difficult to get into Costa Rica than it was Cuba. Who would have thought.

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Made it to Cuba!

It will get better, in that I am confident. Last year, I travelled to Spain on a similar, last-minute, ‘what are you thinking?!’ trip. My knowledge of Spanish was nearly non-existent but I left, three weeks later, fluidly conversational with a new appreciation for the culture.

This will be hard. I came to the realization on the eve of my departure for this mysterious, isolated country that this will likely be the hardest part of my trip. Communication outside of the island will be incredibly difficult (even more so because my phone refuses to accept a Cuban SIM card), I will be speaking solely Spanish and the currency is just about as confusing as it gets. I can do it though. I know it. With each challenge, there will be a lesson, and those are the kinds of lessons that you can’t learn unless you are doing something crazy (like traveling alone as a young woman to a communist country that barely speaks any English with little to no connection to the outside world).

Bad Country

The vast majority of these next seven months I will spend traveling alone, however, my last week in Costa Rica I was fortunate enough to have a travel buddy. Brandon flew in from Colorado and met up with me in San Jose for a cross-country Costa Rican road trip. The first half of the week was fairly smooth with the exception of me constantly fighting with the GPS, him getting bit by a scorpion and me subsequently having a panic attack because of a newly discovered scorpion phobia. Overall, it was nice to have a friend along for the ride and a welcome change of pace from traveling alone.

There was one day, though, where everything seemed to go wrong. Halfway through the week, we half-heartedly left the cloud forests of Monteverde for a six-hour long drive to the coast of Mal Pais. For those who don’t know, Mal Pais translates into Bad Country. My dad jokingly sent a text stating he hoped the place was better than the name. Unfortunately, in the first 24 hours, the translation was spot on.

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Over the treetops in Monteverde, our favorite stop on the road trip

The drive, surprisingly, was fine and unlike the first day of the road trip, I did not take us over an hour off the intended route (while I will 100% admit that I am a horrible navigator, I still blame that on the GPS). After hours of Latin music and Rihanna, who Costa Ricans seem to love, we finally pulled up to a beautiful beach house in the sleepy surfer town. We were shown around the house and informed that both the laundry machine and the TV were broken. That was no big deal, however, when I pulled out my phone to send a whatsapp to my parents stating that I was safely in the next destination, I realized that the WIFI was also broken. Given the fact that I needed to finish the online component of my teaching certification, finalize plans for Cuba and tell my parents that I was safe meant that not having WIFI was a bit of a problem. No worries, we were told, someone would be over to fix it soon.

About twenty minutes later, as we were getting ready for dinner, a middle-aged man showed up and started working on the WIFI. The man spoke no English, only Spanish, and so I was the designated translator, not that I knew much vocabulary related to the internet or technology. Essentially, I was useless but I was trying. And so was he – desperately. To be honest, though, it was clear that he had absolutely NO IDEA what he was doing. He kept pulling up Japanese anime cartoons that described how to fix Internet routers. They weren’t helping. He kept trying and trying but the signal wasn’t working. He got so desperate that he called over his two kids, ages nine and six, to serve as translators because apparently I wasn’t doing a good enough job. Finally, several attempts later, something worked. His relief was mixed with shock as we had full WIFI signal and drove off to dinner.

After returning from dinner, I walked by the laundry room and noticed that it was completely flooded. Not sure what to do, Brandon started sweeping out the water while I called the caretakers of the house. Within minutes, they were there grabbing the broom out of his hands and shooing us away. A little while later, they came back and informed us that the laundry machine now worked but the air conditioner was leaking from the ceiling. They would be back tomorrow to fix it. Cool.

In the middle of the night it started to rain. Due to the rain (which didn’t seem too strong) the power went out. With the power went the AC and throughout the remainder of the night the interior of the house heated up to the toasty 90 some degrees outside. Of course, WIFI also turned off with the power.

At some point the next morning, the power came back on and the laundry room had flooded again. We left for breakfast only to be flagged down on the gravel road leaving the house that there was a problem on the street ahead. Not sure what it was, we continued only to see a huge semi truck had sunk into the ground from the rain and was stuck on the road blocking the only exit to the main street. Awesome. Thanks to Brandon’s incredible driving skills, though, we were able to drive up the side of the road on a slight hill and narrowly pass the truck to get to the street. By narrowly pass the truck, I mean really narrowly pass.

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The conveniently stuck pick up truck that blocked the only exit into town

The truck would stay blocking the road for another day and the laundry room continued to flood frequently for the remainder of our stay. Looking back at all of the speed bumps of the first 24 hours in Mal Pais, though, we both realized how little of a deal they all were. In fact, as each ‘problem’ came up we laughed and wondered what would be thrown at us next. None of these were serious issues only minor inconveniences that we are less accustomed to in the States. It was a great lesson for both of us on how to go with the flow, problem solve and laugh at the little stuff.

Overall, the road trip was great. We explored places and did things that I likely wouldn’t have done on my own. Now, I’m back on my own and ready to take on the next several months solo!

Costa Rican Edina

The two and a half weeks in Costa Rica were spent covered in sweat, sand, sunscreen and salt. While the first few days allowed for the long forgotten act of relaxation, they were spent away from a computer and journal. The remaining weeks were spent in school, at the beach or hopping from place to place on the island. There were hours to reflect on the mile long walks to school and back and during yoga classes in Nosara, however, few of the events were recorded on paper.

Costa Rica was a great place to start the trip. It is likely the most Americanized country in Central America and thus was a safe way to ease into the adventure ahead. The country is diverse in landscape and incredibly beautiful, however, it was hard to escape the English language, the American dollar and Minnesotans. Taking a week of Spanish classes in Nosara was a great way to brush up on my limited Spanish in a formal and controlled setting while also combatting my slight disappointment that the town I chose as my base was essentially an ex-pat community with eerie similarities to Edina, Minnesota.

Three moments in Nosara particularly stood out. The first occurred when I decided to try surfing, an activity that I never thought I would pursue given my former fear of the ocean. Though once or twice, the image of a shark popping to the surface of the ocean to eat me for lunch came into my head, I was able to ignore it and stay in the moment. Surfing was surprisingly fun and I was thrilled when I was able to get up on my first time in the water.

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The second moment involved losing my debit card in Nosara. The day before I was supposed to depart the town for a cross-country road trip, I realized it was missing from my wallet. If I couldn’t find it then I would essentially be out of cash for the next month as a replacement card wouldn’t arrive before I left for a three week trip to Cuba. There was no point in having it sent to Cuba as it would likely be easier to have mail sent to the moon (especially from a U.S. Bank). I ran across town in 97 degree heat desperately asking the employees of every store and restaurant that I had visited in the last week if they had seen it. None had. In a last attempt, I decided to check at the bank where I had used the ATM days before. My hopes were low as I was sure that I had used the card since then. When I attempted to enter the bank, I was stopped by security. After removing my hat, showing my passport, having my bag searched and being waved down by a metal detecting wand, I was finally allowed to enter the bank. Banks here were clearly nothing like those in the States. From there, I sat for nearly 45 minutes waiting my turn in line. Finally, with little hope, I went up and did my best to explain my situation in Spanish. The man nodded, asked for my passport and disappeared in the back. I heard him talking to other bankers and saw him walk back and forth from teller to teller empty handed. He finally approached me again and held up a card. “Este?” He asked. My heart jumped and senseless Spanish bubbled out of my mouth as I tried, in every way that I could, to explain my gratitude. Walking out of the bank I felt triumphant. I looked out for my self, solved a problem and found my card but most importantly, I did it all in Spanish.

Finally, it was time to leave Nosara and move on to the next adventure. I was picked up at the homestay house by a Tuk Tuk. For those that don’t know a Tuk Tuk is essentially a glorified motor tricycle that is a common form of transportation in the rural parts of Costa Rica. The open aired Tuk Tuk sped down the dirt roads of Nosara frantically avoiding pot holes as I had a strong hold on my various pieces of luggage afraid that either they or I would fall out of the back. I made it to the airport in one piece but on an adrenalin high. Pulling up, though, I realized I was the only one there. Even the airline workers had yet to show up. So much for arriving early for a flight. A security guard, the sole person at the airport, let me in the door. He looked at his watch, laughed and told me to take a seat and wait for the employees to show up so I could be checked in. So I sat for an hour in the hot Costa Rican sun until the gate agent appeared about 10 minutes before the planes slated arrival time. I ‘checked’ my bag and watched as the tiny plane descended onto the small runway. As the plane unloaded, it became increasingly clear to me that no one else was coming. The pilots came and walked me over to the door. I had my choice of 20 open seats. I picked one in the middle of the plane near a window. The two pilots made a joke about my private plane before turning on the engine and taking off moments later.

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Couldn’t resist taking a selfie of my ‘private’ plane

Years ago, this would have been my worst nightmare, but that day, it was thrilling. I reveled in this once in a lifetime experience, plugged in my iPod and sang along at the top of my lungs to Taylor Swift. The engine was so loud that the pilots couldn’t hear me, I couldn’t even hear myself, but, even if they could, at that moment, it wouldn’t have mattered. I celebrated my first successful week traveling alone singing and dancing in the back of an empty plane over the beautiful mountains of Costa Rica. First adventure down, countless more to go!